Upgrade your climbing and learn to multi pitch!
TL: DR
Multi-pitch climbing is defined as climbing for more than one rope length by building a stand and bringing your climbing buddy up to your level before continuing upwards. It does not matter if you climb two or more pitches. Ideally, you understand the principles of securing your partner in lead climbing and follow as well as knowing how to abseil down. Most people prefer to climb with two ropes, defined as half ropes, but it is also possible to use only a single rope. Although you do not need to be an expert technical climber, you should know the basics of outdoor climbing before attending a multi-pitch climbing course
What is multi-pitch climbing?
Whether you have been climbing in a gym or outside in a climbing garden, you only ever go to the top of the route and then abseil down. But out in the mountains, it isn’t always so easy. Routes in alpine settings are much longer than a single rope and so you must climb multiple lengths, pitches, of your rope. To achieve this, one builds so-called stands in suited areas on the route. On beginner routes where I am operating, these stand areas have fixed installations and are marked on the topography maps. Here, the lead climber will secure himself on the bolts and prepare to belay his buddy up to the stand. Once both climbers are on the same level, the next pitch is climbed in lead again. And so you go up the wall until you reach the top.
Do you need to be a good climber?
No, not particularly. There are multi-pitch routes in all difficulty ratings. Some are not much harder than a ridge hike. However, you must be careful when comparing grades. A similar grade in a climbing hall or outdoor climbing garden cannot be compared one to one versus the same rating in an alpine setting, where you may be climbing in mountaineering boots, rather than climbing shoes. This, the thin air along with weather conditions need to be considered during planning. If you are just starting, I recommend you take it easy and gain experience slowly. The last thing you want to happen is to get stuck on a wall or get caught out by a thunderstorm. In the last case, not even Rega will come to get you until conditions improve
What do you need to know beforehand?
You should know how to belay your climbing partner in both lead and follow climbing. It is beneficial if you have not had a longer climbing break before attempting a multi-pitch course. Besides belaying, you should know how to install a top rope in a climbing garden, securing yourself with a sling, unbinding and rebinding your harness after going through the safety loop. The main safety device used in alpine settings is either a megajoule or an ATC (Tuber). These devices can be used for belaying and abseiling at the same time, thus saving weight.
What gear do I need?
Not much more than what you need for your regular outdoor climbing. That is your harness, helmet, and belay device (Megajoule or tuber), along with your quickdraws. The additional equipment you will need is five screw gate carabiners, a prusik rope, and a sling, either 90 cm or 120 cm. Depending on the route you may want to bring some advanced gear, but this is usually highlighted in the tour descriptions. We have found it useful to bring a couple of additional slings for routes where bolts are uncommon. If you know how to handle “friends”, then it is usually a good idea to bring one or two, just in case. However, I do not own any and neither do I know how to handle them exactly. The use of friends will only become important on more advanced routes where no, or very few bolts are available.
Where can I find multi-pitch routes?
The best places to find any climbing routes in Switzerland for beginners are the Plaisir series of climbing guides. They exist for various territories of Switzerland and cover single and multi-pitch outdoor climbing. Alternatively, you can check out the SAC website and tour portal if you are a member.
Where can I find a course?
Check back here regularly or sign up to our Telegram channel here to be informed when a course goes up. I can also recommend Touring monkeys. They also organize courses on a semi-regular basis check out their website and meetup group here: https://www.meetup.com/de-DE/TouringMonkeys/
